NEWSLETTER 32 • MAY 2024

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A huge thank you to our speakers and our numerous participants (to date 160) of the three Flip Fashion round tables, organized by HEREWEAR and TCBL in parallel with the New European Bauhaus 2024 festival, which made it possible to explore new production systems in the textile sector and enabled fruitful exchanges and new connections. Were you busy? Feel free to view them here.

Hear, hear! We will be present at the Avantex Paris 2024 exhibition from July 1 to 3, 2024. For the 2nd year, four companies from the TCBL network, partly associated with the HEREWEAR project, will be the pillars of the Resources podium in order to show that sustainable value chains are possible in the textile sector.

Avantex Paris 2024 is also the Avantex Fashion Pitch, an opportunity for you to present your vision and your product and service solutions to current challenges in the textile sector. Only 10 companies will be selected to pitch to an informed jury. Discover the details of registrations at the end of this letter and register without delay!

Good reading !


ECOLOGY & PRODUCTION

FABRIX

Launch meeting.

Cedecs-TCBL is a partner in the three-year Horizon Europe FABRIX project, which simultaneously aims to improve the textile & clothing industry (T&C) in Europe as well as improve the urban planning of these manufacturing functions. FABRIX, which means Fostering local, beautiful and sustainable regenerative textile and clothing ecosystems, is funded by the European Union as part of the European Executive Agency for Health and Digital (HaDEA) program in the Industry cluster, and is closely linked to the values promoted by the New European Bauhaus. It addresses critical environmental and social issues impacted by the textile and garment sector, as identified by the European Green Deal, the Circular Economy Action Plan and industrial strategy.


PROFESSIONAL TRAINING

TEXREV

Ways of seeing, ways of doing.

Discoveries and exchanges were the key words of the week organized in Paris for our German, Italian and Turkish partners, who came to meet vocational education schools, universities, production schools and brands committed to the sustainability and responsibility of the textile sector. This seminar will also have allowed us to explore both how with similar sustainable textiles, we design different clothes, and how with different sartorial heritages, we arrive at similar silhouettes.

(Photo credit: Dr E.Csepe-Bannert)


EDUCATION

VETRINE

What training do our students and businesses need?

By interviewing students, companies and training institutions about their current and future needs, VETRINE has laid the foundations for training modules essential to the radical transformation of the textile-clothing sector towards greater sustainability. Requests were made in particular to better understand materials-fibers-yarns, weaving and knitting techniques, design for a long life of our clothes, transparency and traceability, or new entrepreneurship models, and implement in a concrete manner. Read more on the VETRINE website

(Photo credit: F. Thureau)


ALTERNATIVES

Shemakes x TCBL

Wool processing cooperatives.

First visits to some European cooperatives were made during our shemakes.eu project. In France, Chantemerle uses around 4 tonnes of wool fleeces, including 500 kilos sourced from the Longo Maï cooperators, of which it is a member: merino from Arles or Portugal, Pomeranian wool, black wool from Jura or Roux from Berne. The spinning mill produces around 600 sweaters as well as hats, ponchos, capes, coats or shirts, pants, skirts, over a season of 5 months per year. It was interesting to note that the quality of the wool (like that of hair which can also be weaved) depends on the health of theanimal. The Longo Maï Filature website The shemakes.eu website

Gen Phoenix partners with Doc Martens to make their 1460 model from 50% leather scraps and 50% textile. From a previous experience with Coach bags (Coachtopia), Gen Phoenix validated that the easiest leather to recycle was the leather from hides already tanned but neither dyed nor dried. READ

Since 2020, VEJA has repaired 20,000 pairs of sneakers in 5 workshops around the world. Tested in a first workshop in Bordeaux, the concept was so successful that it was quickly deployed in Paris, Berlin, Madrid and now Brooklyn. For 10 to 90 euros depending on the repair, these new shoemakers (to be trained) allow their owners to wear their pairs of shoes for longer, or to buy and resell sneakers online. Long live the favorite… or legendary models. READ

Lululemon, partner of the Canadian Olympic teams for their non-competition outfits. For these Olympic Games which are taking place in France, Canada has decided to create very fashionable outfits (even couture), emblematic of a natural vision of the country (with prints based on flowers and animals) and nevertheless adapted to these key moments of the games such as the Opening Ceremony or the medal ceremonies. READ

The French government has unveiled the beta version of its “Ecobalyse” calculator, to label the environmental footprint of our clothes. Buyers will thus be able to compare the “impact points” of their future purchases, eg between three t-shirts, a synthetic at 1,252 points vs. a cotton at 893 and an organic cotton at 383 (the minimum being 0). The calculation takes into account greenhouse gas emissions, damage to biodiversity, consumption of water and other natural resources, the use of chemicals, the release of microfibers and even export outside Europe. end-of-life clothing. This indicator also includes the clothing's propensity to be worn for a long time. For the moment, the use of this index by brands is voluntary. READ

Revyze went from 400,000 to 1 million users in 6 months. These are two-minute formats, made by students and for students, to learn concepts, diagrams, ideas, etc. in a simple way and with the support of the community. A rhythmic, flexible and inclusive approach adapted to “snacking” learning, very characteristic of younger generations, and which allows you to acquire micro-certifications throughout your life. READ

The Made in France sector is stagnating, like the organic food segment, with a core target wanting to consume less, better and more locally, but with products that must integrate cost increases, particularly in energy, which cannot be passed on to prices means already high... particularly in a market where ultra-low-cost, consuming more, and less well is successful, such as SheIn. READ

Fashion as Indiscipline Round table around the book Fashion as indiscipline

Mobilier National, Paris 13th

Until May 23, 2024. On the program, exchanges between contributors, artists and editors, led by the directors of the work in order to actively question permanence and impermanence, materiality and immateriality of fashion. READ


Fashion: Laws, Logics, Fictions of Appearance

Cerisy conference from June 3 to 8, 2024. Consider fashion from the angle of its appearances, as well as the desire to study the differentiated regimes of our appearances. In order to think about fashion and its modalities, historians, designers, philosophers, curators, iconographers, artisans and performers will dialogue. READ


May 26 - June 1, 2024, Armenia Fabricademy’s annual bootcamp is aimed at anyone who is curious to learn new techniques and implement soft manufacturing strategies into their practice. Create kilim rugs, dye wool with local natural colors, 3D print on fabrics, make modular clothing, experiment with e-textiles and much more! View the full scheduleHERE


Avantex Fashion Pitch at Avantex Paris 2024, July 1-3, 2024 Do you want to highlight your vision and your products – services which provide answers to the challenges of the textile sector, and thus contact new partners to industrialize them? To be one of the 10 companies selected, register without delay on this link


TCBL Association is an ecosystem of labs, businesses and platforms connected to develop radical transformation of the textile and clothing industry: People Like You! Are you ready to make a difference? Find out about membership here

A big thank you to our contributors of the month, Alexandra, Aurélie, Eszter, Jesse, Marianna and to our editors, Frédérique, Jean-Renaud.

Do you have questions or comments about the topics in this newsletter, or ideas about the textile industry? Do not hesitate to contact us : TCBL@audasud.fr

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