NEWSLETTER 20 • AVRIL 2023

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###Biosourced

Herewear

Business models again, business models always


Think about business models in a sector that is still developing, such as bio-sourced textiles 3th generation, involves thinking systemically about the entire value chain and its transformation towards a desirable and feasible value chain. This requires improving or recreating tools to imagine the conditions for economic development of this sector. This reflection is one of those that we engage with members of the Herewear community, during online meetups bringing together companies concerned by these subjects. To join the Herewear community, it's here !

###Impact

Shemakes

The Book is available!


Creative women who question current practices, break the rules, work to close the value gaps between the sexes and design a better world in the textile-clothing sector, this is the heart of the reflections proposed to the during the final conference of the project and presented in the book downloadable from the sites of shemakes or our editorial partner Audasud.

###Inclusive

Shemakes

Multidisciplinarity, inclusion and education


The shemakes project highlighted the importance of gender and diversity in our network of European laboratories and their respective partners. Surprising? Not really ! The paradox is that 74% of the European workforce in the textile sector is female, and that this reinforces stereotypes about so-called “feminine” qualities and know-how in these professions, while maintaining their exploitation as a force of work and not leaders and innovators. Shemakes was therefore invited to share these reflections with 25 European projects from SPEAR project committed to this path, one of the most obvious ways of bringing democracy to life in Europe. To join the shemakes community, you can send a contact email info@shemakes.eu or by joining the TCBL community.

###Circular

Shoes

Produce differently


The Shoedes project aims to train shoe designers in circular design, and to define new specifications, which integrate all ecological, social and economic dimensions, to establish business models that are probably imperfect but viable and realistic. This work is developed in a collaborative manner, by integrating key skills during pooling workshops, which are invariant regardless of the cultures of origin, and adapted according to certain cultural and production specificities in each country involved. The Shoeses website

###Innovation

Hoka (hover on earth in Maori) is a brand of oversized shoes intended for ultra-marathoners since 2009, with an unrivaled sole and bounce, and colors that distinguish it from its competitors Nike or Adidas.

The Hoka website

###Innovation

Glowee explores the potential of bioluminescent bacteria to create more natural light in our urban environments, and reintegrate humans into an ecosystem where everyone has their role.

Read more

###Innovation

What if we talked viscose? Invented in 1884 by Hilaire de Chardonnet to compete with silk, the market is in the hands of two giants Lenzing (Austria) and Aditya Birla (India). Lenzing employs 7,900 people in 9 global factories and promotes 2 major brands, Tencel and Veocel for nonwovens. The process transforms the wood pulp into a “honey” 24/7 which is then processed by covering, rolling, stretching, rinsing, drying and flaking, for 3000 350kg bales per day (only in Austria). The impact of this production is strongly debated between opponents (too much wood, solvents, energy and water) and supporters (carbon compensation, compostability, recycling, better than petro-sourced polyester), particularly for the version EcoVero.

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###Innovation

Copenhagen Fashion Week, a flagship of ecological fashion To participate, the rules are strict: no destruction of unsold items, at least 50% certified organic fabrics, reusable packaging, waste-free parades. This FW thus attracts young, small brands, on demand business models and often Danish (or Nordic) such as PLN, (di)vision, Skall Studio, A.RoegeHove, Ganni, Iso.Poetism or even Selam Fessahaye. Enough to wake up the world's major FWs?

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###Inspirations

To keep, this carbon poster for France

Out of 10 tonnes of carbon equivalent in France per inhabitant, 1.7 tonnes would come from our consumption and 170 kg from our consumption/purchase of clothing. To achieve the ambitious objectives resulting from the IPCC conclusions, the global average would need to be 2 tonnes per inhabitant per year. Tdownload poster


Strong correlation between high income level and carbon footprint

This is what the World Inequality Lab (Paris - Berkeley) highlights in its latest report. In Europe, this means a gap of 1 to 6 between 5T of CO2 equivalent for the poorest 50% vs. 29.4T of CO2 equivalent, for the richest 10% and 10.7T for the remaining income deciles. Read more


Revolutionizing design education

In a new book, Mitch Goldstein, associate professor at the Rochester Institute of Technology, returns to the over-simplification of design, which through the use of ready-made methods, has forgotten its roots of knowledge, inspiration and manufacturing combined. Read more


A new ICTE fund of 3.75 billion euros

An investment tool for future tech champions to support late-stage growth companies, raising over €50 million, and hopefully backed by strong revenue models (at the opposite of models which primarily seek customer growth without profitability, opening the doors to future “bubbles”). Read more

###Rendez-vous

Parallel The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts dedicates this exhibition to women designers in North America of the 19th and 20th centuries who participated in numerous revolutions of our everyday objects. Among them, Ruth Glenie invented the retractable seat belt, child door locks and the vanity mirror for General Motors. Until May 28, 2023.

More information

First retrospective in France of the artist Faith Ringgold at the Picasso Museum, which expresses through her printed, cut and sewn fabrics, on which she paints and adds handwritten paragraphs, the necessary liberation of women against a backdrop of memory of trafficking and recognition of African cultures, with the motto, “My ideas are my freedom”.

More information

Angers Feminism Museum A 700m2 space will be dedicated to the exhibition of feminist conquests and mediation, on the occasion of the renovation of the 7000m2 of the library of the University of Angers (reopening planned for 2027), the opportunity to “pay homage to women of letters and artists, by reevaluating their contribution and the greatness of their work”. This space will make it possible to express the potential and enrich the debate of the University's already existing archives.

More information

The giant sculpture called Needle and Button, which indicated the information kiosk of the Garment District of New York, lost its function (all information is online) but was saved and rebuilt as New York heritage.

More information

Contact :

Athanase.Contargyris@cedecs-tcbl.com

Do you have questions or comments about the topics in this newsletter, or ideas about the textile industry? Do not hesitate to contact us.

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